I arrived in Cuba much later than I had anticipated. My plane was delayed as they had to do some repairs to the plane. Given that about a week ago a plane had crashed on take off killing nearly everyone at Madrid airport, I am glad for the delay! After touching down in Cuba, I was hit by a wall of tropical heat that I had not experience in all of European summer. I got into a cab and headed to my accomodation which was a casa particulara in Vedado a suburb of Havana. On the way there were many signs with Fidel, Che and many other revolutionary slogans. Also I noticed all the old cars on the road.. I was in Cuba!
A casa is basically someones house where they are able to rent out rooms to tourists. The family I stayed with were lovely and very welcoming. The nanas breakfasts in the morning were awesome. On my first morning in Cuba, the winds were up and stuff was banging on the roof. It was pouring rain!! It was hurricane Gustav... how did I not know a hurricane was about to hit Cuba and that it was hurricane season. The power went out at about 2pm and didnt come on until the next day. I took a look out the front door once, to see clouds racing across the sky, tree trunks being blown down the street and pounding rain!
Given my previous few days I had a very early night and caught up on most of my sleep. The next day the sun was out and the clean up process had begun. Havana did not fair too badly but some other parts of the country, particularly to the west did not fare as well. Havana was not as backwards as I though it was going to be. My first day I spent wandering the streets, listening to music on hotel terraces and taking in my first mojito. There is a lot of friendly harrassment here, be it cigars, women, handicrafts.. just about anything but it was all in good spirit if you dealt with it the right way.
A highlight of my time in Havana was definitely a visit to the Revolution museum which went through how Fidel, Che and their gang proceeded to take over Cuba in a revolutionary war which saw then end of the puppet American government and the beginning of a Cuba that would determine its own path. I think initially they had good intentions with a strong social reform program especially in education and health, which even today is still very good. Be it right or wrong they sided with the communists and so began the trade embargos with the west especially America which was once its biggest export market. After the fall of the soviet union there was a special period of severe poverty in cuba and things were grim as there was little or no income. Nowadays things are better with tourism being the main money spinner but they also export pharmaceuticals and doctors to other countries in exchange for goods.
This environment makes Cuba the living museum it is today. One thing I couldnt get over were all the old cars, shops with little in them, food stamps and street side stalls which were there one day but not the next because they couldnt get the ingredients they needed to make what they were selling. The food in cuba was another interesting affair. It was so hit and miss, one day you could be eating a really nice rice and chicken meal and the next a dirty cheap pizza which has strange tasting salty cheese on it and something that may or may not resemble ham. The food in the casas where we stayed was generally the best though.
The other really odd thing about Cuba is the dual currency system. Everything that has to do with tourism is in convertible pesos which is the equivalent to 1 USD or around. The other currency and much of what the locals use is the National Peso. Generally you could get by quite cheaply eating at national peso places or basically where the locals ate and finding peso stores but they tended to not have much in them.
In Havana I met Anna (from Germany but originally Ukrainian) and Harold (from Austria) we decided to head out of Havana and made our way to Trinidad. The bus ride here was amazing, valleys, mountains and a bus whose aircon was set to 4 degrees!! I think most people in the bus had everything warm in their bags on which is crazy when you think outside it is 3 degrees with some crazy humidity. Trinidad was a far cry from Havana with quiet cobblestoned streets, old churches and great music. On our first night there we headed to the Casa de la Trova and saw a multitude of salsa bands, traditional music, dancing and many other things. This was an awesome location for a bar. Situated at the bottom of the old steps in town, people would sit on tables outside and on the steps and listen to some top quality music. There were also some amazing salsa dances who strutted their stuff in between the acts.. I wish I could dance like that! This night we also met Tristan (AUS) and Harm (Dutch).
The next day we went out into the countryside horseriding. It was some of the best riding I have ever done. I think I worked my horse way too hard though. We went across mountain passes (small ones anyway), into the fields below, across rivers and then into the rain forest to a waterfall where we went swimming. One tip for everyone wanting to ride a horse.. do not wear shorts!! I had a free wax as well as a horse ride!! That night we went and sat on the roof terrace of Tristan and Harm´s casa, watched the sunset, drank some rum, smoked some cigars and then ate 10cent hamburgers. We made a crazy plan to leave the next day and to only take local transport to Camaguey.
The next morning leaving Harold behind, Anna and I met Harm and Tristan and began our epic journey across the countryside. Our first transport was an old chevrolet in almost perfect condition probably from the 50s. It took us an hour down the road to the local bus station. Bus travel that is not on the expensive buses is not allowed for tourists in Cuba. After waiting for over an hour, we managed to wangle our way onto a Truck-bus, , this is a truck which has what looks like a train carriage attached to it and crams as many people into the back of it. This only took us a short distance and after that we managed to get 2 cars which eventually took us to Camaguey. The whole way in the last car the guy was saying how much trouble he would be in if the police caught him.. his risk anyway. This car looked like it could fall apart at any moment and had so much body filler I dont think it had anymore metal in it at all!